Friday, August 26, 2011

Mission Accomplished



The journey is not yet complete, but Katahdin has been reached as the climax thereof. Some things just aren't over til they're over. In a social sense this is one of those things. Arriving at the last shelter on the trail, just outside Baxter State Park, I was like "Are you kidding me?? This is the Twilight Zone, right?". And 25 yards from the pinnacle experience of the northern terminus with its famous sign I had to just shake my head and laugh at the abrupt and awkward six-minute pause that the emotion of my monumental near approach was relegated to. But I couldn't have asked for a better day to summit. The overwhelming reality of all that was accomplished there, and the meaning behind it are beyond the power of even the most descriptive words. Katahdin is more than a mountain. Surreal. Magnificent. Idyllic. Personal. Any overt response to the structure by anyone other than a true thru-hiker appears trite.
2175 miles behind me demanding I do so is the only means on God's green earth by which I had proceeded through The Gateway and upward blaze by blaze. 4 hours later, descending among comrades of similar feat, I was floating over boulders on miracles.
Now I'm on my way full circle, this time in the contrast and glory of whirlwind fashion.
I'm many friends and vistas, miles and choices, experiences and realizations richer than I already was when I began this irreplaceable trek. It will be awhile before I fully process it all.

Wednesday, August 17, 2011

Monso(o)n, Maine




So. From Rangeley. I cranked out full days and then some- to Straton in 2 days instead of 3, to Caratunk in 2 days instead of 3. Saddleback was alright. Bigelow, Horns Pond to Avery Peak, fantastic. The Kennebec, lovely. Rain, yes rain, lots of rain. But at this point I have this nonplused resignation to it. Eh, rain, I'm hiking, whatever. makes it a little slower in someways, but if you're going to be wet all day and know it, you dont waste time trying to keep the boots dry.

I've done a 20-mile day in Maine already. Which means I've done a 20-mile day in every state (or included every state in one I should say. West Virginia doesn't have 20 miles)
I also got kidnapped by a little old lady at the post office who felt she had a better idea of where to drop me off than I did.
I finally had a legitmate river fording to do yesterday. 3 infact. Loved it. I did not however get to test my gladiator flip-flops. The boots were already soaked pre-entry.

My camera gave up the ghost on the south bank of the Kennebec awaiting morning ferry. I thought it would really suck to hike all this way and not have a summit photo. Part of my amazing support team overnighted a wonderful replacement, and you will see me ontop shortly. I'm about to enter the 100 mile wilderness. Which is daunting in several regards, but at the moment the sun is shining. I have an idea of what day I'd like to summit, and an idea of two days after that being more reasonable. Neither of which I will publish here.

But next time you find a new post here I will be a for real deal totally legit thru-hiker.


Coasting


Yes, I was. Took 3 days off out of Rangeley Maine and went to the coast for some R&R with a girl I'd met hiking in the Smokies, hung out with in HotSprings, that had put out the invite to me. Chilled on Monhegan Island all day, cooked and baked all sorts of amazingness in a real kitchen, had lobster for the first time (which is like a variation on picking bluecrabs).

See none of the trail rumors are true. The Whites didn't kill us. Pennsylvania isn't rocky. And Virginia sure isn't flat. But there is one trail rumor that is more than true. Southern Maine is worse than the Whites. Southern Maine is the worst part of the trail. It takes forever. Mahoosuc Notch and Mahoosuc Arm. Toughest 10 miles of my life. Took me 12 hours. If I were a fraction of an inch shorter I dont know how I would've made it. Stretched me to the Max. And all in the rain or just after rain besides. I had a few brief shafts of light before Andover, like sundown just before Speck Pond, probably the most epic scene of all my life as a hiker.

Things got a little better from Andover. I found someone to hike with for 3 days, which is a rarity. Rarity in that it has never happened for me and another thru-hiker. I liked it cause it was mutually beneficial, I wasn't getting creeped on, and each of us hiking our own hike was most important to both of us. Then I went on vacation.

I meant to update this from there but I fell asleep instead. The change (or lack) of pace and some seawater did me wonders. And my legs, in revolt and mutiny after 1850 miles of what I'd put them through, were back in the game and up for hiking again.


Tuesday, August 2, 2011

Ups and Downs - White Mountains National Forest



Water became scarce between Hanover and the Whites. Record temperatures continued to climb. I replaced my boots in Lincoln. Things were going well. The Trail was notably tougher and less maintained. I was dragging, feeling lethargic and not making so many miles. The Whites were partly familiar territory. I zeroed at Lonesome Lake. The Croo there was really great to me. I felt like I could sleep all day and did a pretty goood job of it. The next day I was meeting Lydia with eagar anticipation. She brought me a Trader Joe's resupply and carried it halfway up the mountain for me. For a few hours of the morning we hiked, snacked and got hit on together. Not long after she returned to the Flume for a drive back to the baby, I puked all over the trail. It was highly un-Leave-No-Trace-ish, but there wasn't much I could do about it, and 2-3 weeks of upset stomach from various and sometimes unknown causes finally departed. The skies were alternately overcast and clear day by day, but with no major storms I say I got fantastic weather for the duration, and with consistant sufficient calories further supplimented with Hut Food my energy returned in force and I was both enjoying and feeling strong for my 8-15 mile days thru this territory, highlighted by the scenery and appearance of trail friends not seen for sometime. We're now crossing southbounders in relatively large numbers, most of whom are highly annoying, arrogant and inconsiderate, but that's just a generalization. I've met a few real good ones as well. Zeroing yesterday at the trailside hostel near Gorham NH I accomplished most everything but this update: sleep, resupply, cleanings, repairs, and writings. I won't quite hit Maine today but I'm really really close at this point. There's a rendezvous to the coast I'll be making from Rangely sometime next week, so I'm signing off now to pack up and hit the Trail. Under 300 to Katahdin.